Surf's Up

I finally feel like I live in Hawaii.

I had my first surfing lesson this morning & it was so incredibly fun – I’m hooked.

I was more nervous than I’d expected. I’m not sure if it was the thought of trying something totally new, or just the feeling that I didn’t know anyone & wasn’t going with a group of pals, but I got over it and had a great time.

There were two instructors, both native Hawaiians, and another couple who were students of the surf like me, so I basically had my own private lesson.

First we took the boards on the dock & practiced the proper stance out of the water. After getting comfortable with the boards we put them in the water near the boat dock and practiced paddling, turning with your feet & standing. Once we’d all got the hang of it we took a little boat out near the breakers where the reef is, & that’s where we surfed!

It’s different than in Florida because of the reef – I didn’t get why we had to go out so far to catch the waves, but once we got out to the reef & I could see the bottom of the ocean I felt more at ease.

For me paddling hard enough to catch the wave was the most difficult part. I didn’t have a hard time standing up at all – which I completely expected – but it takes some practice to get the feel of when to paddle and ride the wave.

Overall it was a great experience & I’m so glad I branched out to try something a little out of my comfort zone.

Now I’m off to search for some used boards so I can have one to call my own 😉

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